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Editorial

A culinary journey through time at The Grand Heritage pop-up

When guests embark on a culinary journey through time for the occasion of the Dolder Grand’s 125th anniversary at The Grand Heritage, this is meant quite literally. The menu – with dishes such as huitres Vladimir, vichyssoise with caviar and sole à la cardinal – is reminiscent of the Belle Époque and classic haute cuisine. It is a homage to the early days of the Dolder Grand Hotel & Curhaus. Culinary Director Heiko Nieder drew inspiration for the temporary restaurant from Auguste Escoffier (1846–1935), the legendary creator of grande cuisine.

Is it still possible to cook as they did in Escoffier’s time?

For Heiko Nieder, the answer is clear: “In principle, anything is possible!” Modern kitchen appliances and innovative methods have made the work much easier. “I am amazed when I consider how my colleagues did without these tools 125 years ago.” There are hardly any limits when it comes to the ingredients either. “Everything they had then is still available today. Thanks to modern logistics, often even in better quality and greater freshness.”

For ingredients such as the fausse soupe à la tortue “Lady Curzon” starter, which are prohibited today, there are alternatives that have become classics. Imagination and skill are of the essence in such cases. The turtle is replaced by calf’s head, a very delicate and flavourful piece of meat that gives the dish a new yet equally delicious note. Lady Curzon (1870–1906), by whom this soup refined with sherry or Madeira is inspired, was known for her passion for the most exquisite culinary creations of her time served at large banquets. Had she had the opportunity to enjoy Heiko Nieder’s modern interpretation, she might have said: “Your soup, Monsieur Nieder, preserves the soul of the original while elevating it to a creation that corresponds to your modern times. What a wonderful homage to the exquisite art of fine dining!”

Other dishes developed a radiance that remains strong to this day, such as the Helene pear dessert (poire belle Hélène). Escoffier himself created it and dedicated it to the eponymous heroine of the “La Belle Hélène” operetta by Jacques Offenbach, which premièred in Paris in 1864. The poached pear served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce soon conquered the fine dining restaurants and salons of Paris, becoming an international dessert classic.

Escoffier heritage in modern cuisine

“Escoffier’s fundamental techniques remain the basis to this day, and modern chefs still have to master them,” explains Heiko Nieder. “They are an essential part of culinary history. The extensive list of classic garnishes in “Le Guide Culinaire” is particularly impressive, although the recipes often contain no precise weights.” For Michelin-starred chef Nieder, Escoffier was an integral part of the classical training, adapted to Nouvelle Cuisine. It was key to his professional development to build on this foundation, to reinterpret those culinary delights and to push boundaries with dedication and joy. “If this knowledge becomes too central during training to become a chef, you will end up letting life’s lessons pass you by.”

The Grand Heritage as a creative playground

Heiko Nieder does not have a specific favourite dish on the menu of The Grand Heritage. For him, it is all about the selection and variety. The Grand Heritage represents a special opportunity to combine classic techniques with modern flair and to have one thing above all: “fun, fun, fun during the creative implementation.”


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